The route begins in the Museum courtyard with the panel on the right presenting the history of the Val Baganza, the village of Calestano and its territory.
Val Baganza, crossed by the stream of the same name, extends over a hydrographic basin of 225.5 square kilometers enclosed by narrow ridges that separate it from the Parma valleys to the east and Taro to the west. The limestone-marly terrains dominate the upper and middle part of the valley characterized by steep slopes, while the gentler and more open low hills are mainly composed of clayey and sedimented rocks.
These lands favor the growth of forests on the hill slopes, and farming in the flat areas. The valley has been populated since Neolithic times, with settlements dating back to 5.000 BC, and then passed under the domination of the Terramare people during the Bronze Age. The Roman influence, however, can be seen starting from the 2nd century BC with exploitation of natural resources and wine production. During the Middle Ages, having control of valley became a crucial issue to reach the Cisa pass and the Tyrrhenian Sea. This strategic importance led to the construction of several castles with the aim of garrisoning the area and to control it. Despite its importance, Val Baganza has never been crossed by large traffic, which is why it has remained almost unchanged up to the present day.
Calestano, located on the right bank of the Baganza stream, has medieval roots even though its name could be traced back to that of “Callistus”, a Roman era landowner of the area. During the Middle Ages, the town was a fiefdom belonging to the Fieschi family, that later passed on to the Tarasconi counts until 1806 when it became a municipality. After the unification of Italy, various roads were built, and these favored economic development. Among these, the Parma-electric tramway of Marzola which promoted ski tourism until its closure in 1952. The village of Calestano developed along a road axis from East to West. The main road connected the far West from the Maestà to the parish church of San Lorenzo, while the ancient Rio di Sant’Agata (a torrent), now buried, flowed along what is now Mazzini Street. Walking along the streets of the ancient village you can still admire the oldest part of the town consisting of stone-paved streets.
The image in the center of the panel is a map of Calestano which presents the most suggestive points of the historic village.
There are numerous villages that dot the valley, and which present significant examples of spontaneous architecture preserved over time. The map highlights the most interesting ones.
The Calestano area also offers lush nature with a dense network of hiking paths. During spring you can admire different species of flowers, including wild orchids and anemones, while in autumn the woods are tinged with bright colors; in summer, the cool breeze is refreshing, while in winter, snow creates a suggestive environment. It is possible to spot wild animals such as fawn, deer and birds of prey. Bicycle lovers can explore the area thanks to the Mountain Bike Cycle Path, enjoying the route along the woods and restored villages. The “Stonemasons’ Route” offers breathtaking views of the rocky range of the “Devil’s Jumps” also used in the past as a stone quarry.
In the panel, you can observe various strategic points of Val Baganza. Continuing to the left we reach the next panel.
The Uncinato Truffle of Fragno is a precious underground mushroom characteristic of Val Baganza. The Museum is dedicated to its history and culture, its habitat and its traditions.
Collect the card for the hidden treasure hunt at the ticket office: answer the various questions related to the individual sections and give shape to the mysterious word. Type it on the touch screen at the end of the route, and if your answer is correct, you will be able to watch a very special film…
The Uncinato Truffle of Fragno Museum is part of the circuit of Food Museums in the province of Parma, created to enhance the excellent gastronomic products of the “Italian Food Valley”.
A short video on the right of the ticket office presents all the venues of the circuit.
The film on our right shows us the world seen through the eyes of a Lagotto while he searches the truffles in the woods of Val Baganza with his master. Turn back to look at the next panel.
We can identify truffles thanks to experience, but without the help of an animal we are unable to locate them. The use of pigs for truffle hunting was first documented in the 15th century in the book De honesta voluptate by Bartolomeo Sacchi. In the 16th century this practice spread throughout Europe and the tools used by prospectors such as the spade were developed: this is small size hoe designed to minimize damage to the soil and to the roots of underground mushrooms, today subject to law regulations. For transport, instead, specific containers such as the catana are used: this is a bag for truffles that allows the dispersion of spores. Furthermore, truffle hunters wear suitable clothing that protects them from the dangers of the forest, such as mountain boots and gloves to dig safely, and carry a walking stick.
Some of the typical tools of truffle hunters are displayed in the display case on the left. We reach the next section dedicated to research, immediately on the left is the panel dedicated to the animals trained for this activity.
The domestication of the pig began around 7,000 BC in the Balkan peninsula and it spread to Europe in the late Neolithic. Humans discovered that the sows were attracted to the smell of the truffle since it gives off a pheromone similar to that of the male pig. So, the search for truffles began following the steps of sows in the woods near human settlements. In the Middle Ages, the use of these animals is demonstrated by a fresco by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in which a farmer can be seen leading a pig tied by one leg to prevent it from devouring the truffles. However, the use of these animals was soon replaced by the use of trained dogs, more efficient and not harmful to the soil. Breeds such as Italian Pointing dogs, Italian Coarsehaired Pointers, pointers and griffins proved to be suitable for this activity. The Lagotto Romagnolo became the truffle dog par excellence in time. His sociable character, intelligence and exceptional sense of smell make it the ideal dog for searching for truffles. In 1991 it was officially recognized as an Italian breed with the specification denomination of “truffle dog” and in 2021 UNESCO recognized the special bond between man and dog in the practice of searching for and extracting truffles in Italy, declaring it a World Heritage Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
We now continue the path to our left towards the section dedicated to botany and turn back to the giant truffle to look at the next panel.
The word “truffle” has multiple meanings. In botany it refers to a valuable underground mushroom, in zoology indicates a bivalve mollusc commonly found in the Mediterranean, in gastronomy it can also be an ice cream-based dessert, in common language it refers to the part of the nose of many mammals and metaphorically, recalling the work of Molière, it indicates an apparently virtuous, but dishonest person.
In the panel there are also other nouns which, associated with the word “truffle”, describe its botanical, zoological and symbolic aspects.
The truffle is the fruiting body of a hypogeal mushroom that grows underground. Thrives in cool and humid at 10/15 cm from the ground, and with the rise in spring soil temperature, the mycelium begins to reproduce. It develops in symbiosis with arboreal or shrubby plants through mycorrhizae which are made up of intertwined hyphae that allow the plant to provide nutrients to the truffle in exchange for water and mineral salts. The hyphae, as a whole, are called mycelium which is the main organism that generates the fruiting body of the truffle. The spores inside the truffle, germinate and originate a new mycelium, that in turn can form new mycorrhizae. Hypogeal mushrooms are different from the epigean ones (such as the Porcini) because they cannot spread the spores using the wind; therefore, they develop a strong odor to attract insects and animals that eat their fruiting body and spread the spores.
The development cycle of the Black Summer and Uncinato Truffles begins with the sowing of the spores in February, followed from their germination in March and the formation of mycorrhizae. During the month of April, the mycelium colonizes the soil. Reproduction occurs in May, while the Black Summer truffle ripens in June, and the maturation of Uncinato Truffles begins. In July, the Black Summer truffle harvest progresses, while its maturation ends in August. In September, the Uncinato Truffle matures slowly, and its harvesting begins in October and continues until January.
The large circular graph illustrates the annual calendar of the Black Summer truffle and the Uncinato Truffle.
Val Baganza is geologically characterized by the presence of the Flysch of Monte Bosso, Monte Sporno and Monte Cassio, clastic rocks deriving from the weathering of limestone and marly rocks of the Mesozoic and Cenozoic. These rocks show stratifications and folds due to sedimentary accumulations and catastrophic events that have altered the seabed. The terrain is predominantly calcareous and alkaline, favoring the growth of black hornbeam, downy oak and hazelnut. Located in the North-East compared to the Cisa pass, the area is influenced by the Tyrrhenian wind with a climate that alternates between continental and marine characteristics, ideal for the Uncinato Truffle. The terrain is fresh, moist and shaded and favors the development of the intense aroma of the Fragno Truffle. In this territory summer truffles also grow, considered of lower quality and with a less intense aroma. The truffle, being a heterotrophic mushroom, creates a symbiosis involving specific plants such as Oaks, holm oaks, hornbeams, limes and poplars, as well as other broad-leaved and coniferous trees. In particular, the truffle of Fragno prefers plants like Black Hornbeam, but it also favors Hazelnuts, Downy Oaks and Beech Trees.
Bottom left there is an in-depth analysis of the trees favored by the Fragno Truffle. Let’s turn around now and move towards the monitor on our left.
The film features interventions on the Uncinato Truffle of Fragno.
The path continues to our left with the panel on varieties.
In nature there are many species of truffle, the 2008 Dictionary of the Fungi lists 86 of them, but only a few are edible and are collected and marketed. In Italy, nine species are available on the market, they are: the white truffle of Alba, Bianchetto truffle, black truffle of Norcia, summer black truffle, Uncinato Truffle of Fragno, winter black truffle, smooth black truffle, muscat black and ordinary black truffle. To distinguish these species from each other, we must use an organoleptic evaluation system that considers parameters such as aroma, flavor, the appearance of the peridium (the external part) and the gleba (the internal part) and the maturation period which varies from species to species. In the laboratory, spores can be identified using analytical biomolecular technique. Furthermore, some geoclimatic characteristics such as soil properties, presence of water, humidity, climate, altitude and local flora can determine the habitat of each species of truffle.
On the panel we can find some insights into the truffle species marketed in Italy.
The truffle is made up of two main parts: the external peel, called peridium, which varies from species to species depending on the soil in which it grows, and the internal fleshy part, called glebe, is composed mainly from water, fats, fiber, mineral salts and organic substances deriving from the hosting tree. Its color can vary from brown to pink or from white to gray with the possibility of veins. The shape of the carpophore, the fruiting body, depends on the type of soil: soft earth produces truffles with spherical globose carpophores, while stony and root-rich soils generate irregular and lumpy truffles. Furthermore, the truffle’s sensitivity to pollution makes it so that it can grow only in pristine areas, making it a true sentinel of nature.
Test your senses! Come closer, put your hand in the three holes, touch the models and try to guess, with your eyes closed, which one is the Fragno Truffle, then write your answer on the Hunt sheet.
The truffle emits an aroma that attracts mammals and insects, which favors the dispersion of its spores. Gas chromatography experts have identified numerous compounds that contribute to formation of its characteristic scent, including alcohols, aldehydes, esters, ketones and compounds of sulfur. In addition to these compounds, there are also steroid hormones that have a strong sexual appeal and explain the use of animals in their search. About two hundred volatile compounds were identified in truffles, but only a small part of these is relevant to humans. Some of these aromas are produced by bacteria present in mycorrhizae, which affects the diversity of aromas based on the characteristics of the soil.
On the left, the giant truffle.
The large model of the Uncinato Truffle of Fragno was created by Emanuela Dall’Aglio and shows both the wrinkled exterior and the interior part characterized by a dense pattern of veins. A Lagotto dog is searching, guided by its formidable nose…
We leave the Botany room and continue the visit to the section dedicated to research where on the right we can see the panel on truffle hunters.
Truffle harvesting has traditionally been a farmers’ activity during the colder seasons of the year. Over time, the involvement of more and more people has made it necessary to regulate the activity, underlined by the national and regional laws of 1991. Currently, the truffle harvest follows a regional calendar which indicates the types of truffles and the periods in which collection is permitted. Furthermore, truffle hunters must pass a training course and obtain a license to carry out this activity. The law also requires that truffle hunters must be assisted by trained dogs with a keen sense of smell. When the dog spots the truffle and starts digging, the truffle hunter must intervene at the point indicated by the animal, extracting the truffle very delicately and covering the removed soil to encourage the growth of new mushrooms. The maximum harvest allowed is one kilo of truffles per day for each truffle hunter. Furthermore, night search is prohibited, although some regions allow it. Many hunters prefer this practice to keep the production areas secret. Additionally, the darkness keeps the dog more focused and the humidity of the forest, especially in the early morning hours, also enhances its olfactory sensitivity.
Let us now look to our left at the large photographic panel.
The large panel shows us the natural environment in which the truffle lives and in which truffle hunters move with attention and respect. We enter the forest room where thanks to multimedia we experience the emotions of a day of truffle hunting in the woods.
At the end of the film, when the room lights up, you only have one minute to search through the various little boxes the broken words, transcribe them on the hunting sheet and then reconstruct the complete sentence.
The great French chef Alain Ducasse describes truffles as a unique and indescribable taste experience, characterized by an irregular shape, a flavor, a consistency and a scent that cannot be compared to anything known. Anthèlme Brillat-Savarin, politician and refined French gastronome of the 18th century, author of the famous work Physiology of taste, or meditations on gastronomy, defined it as “the diamond of the kitchen”. Numerous other illustrious people have shown a special love for truffles throughout history.
If you frame the QR-Code at the feet of each character, you will the story of their great passion for truffles. After listening to them, solve the question and report the result on the hunting card.
Touch the dish you prefer on the large table in the center of the room and explore the interactive menu. You can choose between ancient recipes and modern preparations, ancient menus, unexpected combinations and even the use of truffles in the preparation of cocktails.
The history of truffles is ancient, and shrouded in mystery. It influenced gastronomy and science for thousands of years. The first mentions date back to 1900 BC in Sumerian inscriptions, while the Greeks and Romans appreciated it on their tables. Over the centuries doctors and scholars examined the effects of truffles on human health and studied the production process. In the 19th century, Carlo Vittadini contributed to the classification of truffle varieties, while Giovanni Vialardi and Costanzo Gazzera introduced new recipes and preparation methods. Furthermore, in 1892, Gaspard Adolphe Chatin defined a scientific name for the truffle, contributing to its botanical understanding.
In the chronology on the left we can note some fundamental stages in the history of knowledge of our precious mushroom.
In the history of Parma, the truffle has ancient roots, which date back to the Middle Ages, but the first printed document dates back to 1912 when the article Truffles: the production of our mountains highlights the presence of truffles on the hills of Val Baganza. The importance of the Uncinato Truffle of Fragno has grown over the years: in 1984 the first Fragno Truffle Festival was held, while in 1991 the traditional festival transformed into a National Fair. In 2000, the Fragno Black Truffle was registered among the Traditional Agri-food Products (PAT) by Emilia Romagna Region and became part of the typical products promoted by the “Road of Prosciutto and Wines of the Parma Hills”. In 2004, the Val Baganza Traditional Excellence Consortium was established with the task of promoting the “Classic Lands” logo of the Fragno Truffle. This was followed in 2007 by the approval of the first specification that regulate its collection, conservation and sale. Finally, in 2021, the “Search and quarrying of truffle in Italy” was recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO, highlighting the cultural and historical importance of this traditional practice.
A touch screen allows us to explore different aspects related to truffles between history and customs: from proverbs to lottery numbers, from literature to cinema.
We continue to the right with the panel that presents the truffle in art.
The truffle, a rare and expensive product, has often been associated with a mysterious and infernal aura accused of stimulating gluttony and lust. For this reason, it has rarely been represented in art.
However, in the 14th century, an illustration depicting a young truffle collector is found in the Taccuinum Sanitatis (book of good health), and truffle is seen as a cause of illness according to the beliefs of the time. In 1573 the painter Arcimboldo paints Autumn and some scholars have recognized a truffle in the black pupil of the man’s eye. In 1706, a huge truffle was painted by Bartolomeo Bimbi for the Wunderkammer of the Grand Duke of Tuscany. Jean-Baptiste-Siméon Chardin, in the XVIII century, paints a Still Life with onions and truffles, with moralistic symbols underlying the distinction between products intended for the commoners and the nobility. Finally, in 1986, the photographer Mauro Davoli elaborates photograph that includes the Fragno Truffle among the other excellent products of the “Food Valley”, reviving the atmospheres of ancient still life paintings.
Let’s move towards the panel on our right.
Francesco Petrarca, the great Italian poet of the fourteenth century, during his stay at the castle of Guardasone, property of Azzo da Correggio, Lord of Parma at the time, became aware of the fame of the Calestano truffle. In his masterpiece, the Canzoniere, Petrarca mentions the truffle in the ninth sonnet; in fact, he poetically sends a basket of truffles to a friend, describing them this way: “…and not only what opens to us from outside, the banks and hills adorned with flowers, but inside, where the day never dawns, earthly humor becomes pregnant with itself, so that such and similar fruit can be reaped…”.
Andrea Bajardi, a prominent figure in the cultural and political life of Parma between 14t and the 1500, is known for his collection of rhymes that follows the courtly style typical of the songbook by Petrarch. The twenty-first sonnet tells of a small basket of truffles sent as a gift to his beloved, with the hope of encouraging a gallant encounter.
Let’s move to our right again.
The millenary tradition of the municipality of Calestano sees the search and collection of truffles as an activity handed down by farming families. The surnames of truffle hunters such as Porta, Calzolari, Gennari, Leporati, Ollari have been constant over the centuries. The Leporati and Porta used pigs for truffle hunting before the use of dogs, furthermore Rodolfo Ollari, known as “al Morett”, was one of the most skilled in the area. In addition to traditional search, the cultivation of Uncinato Truffles has developed with pioneers like Francesco Franceschi. Today, the Macchiatonda farmhouse continues this tradition planting new truffle grounds.
The charm of the precious truffle is also linked to traditional markets. Prices are subject to significant variations throughout the year, influenced by the abundance of the truffles harvested in a given year: a poor harvest, in fact, causes significant upward deviations. There are four main criteria that determine prices: the state of preservation (consistency and maturity), the perceived quality (intensity and pleasantness of the aroma), the size (small, medium or large), and the aesthetics (shape uniformity and suitability for slicing). It is possible to preserve fresh truffle in various ways. To get started, you need to clean it carefully using a toothbrush and cloth to remove the soil. Once cleaned, there are several storage methods. You can opt for whole preservation by placing the truffle in the refrigerator inside an airtight glass container, or it can be placed in an airtight glass container covered with rice which will absorb excess humidity. Additionally, if frozen, the truffle tends to lose flavor and aroma; it is better to prepare it in a mixture by chopping the truffle and mixing it with grated Parmigiano Reggiano. After about ten days the cheese will have absorbed the aroma of the truffle creating a mixture ready for use in numerous recipes.
In the Parma area, two associations focus on promoting the Uncinato Truffle of Fragno. The first is the Association of Truffle hunters of the Parma province, founded in 1992, which is committed to protection of truffle-growing territories and contributed to the recognition of Uncinato Truffle of Fragno as autonomous species in 1991. The second, however, is the Parma Truffle Collectors Association, founded in 2003, which defends free research and territory. In addition to these associations there is the Fragno Uncinato Truffle Consortium which manages the Uncinato Truffle of Fragno quality mark on behalf of the municipality of Calestano and the participating consortium members and follows the regulations that regulate collection, marketing and processing. Furthermore, it actively participates in ministerial meetings and promotes knowledge, protection and culture of the Hooked Truffle.
The most popular way to enjoy the precious truffle is to sprinkle it in thin sheets on the gastronomic dishes, creating a complete sensorial experience for the diner. To obtain uniformly sized sheets, the “truffle cutter” is used, an instrument known since the seventeenth century. Originally made of silver by the craftsmen of the Court, this instrument became popular too among the emerging bourgeoisie.
In the display case we can observe different types of wooden truffle cutters from the Parma area.
During the First World War, the troops’ rations played a fundamental role. The “Defeat of Caporetto” of 1917, which marked the largest retreat of the Italian army, coincided with a shortage of food. However, the reorganization of food logistics during the reconquest of the lost positions was crucial for the final victory. “Comfort foods” like chocolate, alcohol and truffled anchovies, truffle-flavored conserve, contributed to supporting the morale of the troops. Although the truffle was only a flavoring, it represented an unattainable luxury for many during the war.
In the display case we can observe photographs and historical artefacts dating back to the First World War.
The visit is over, look at the results of the various quizzes and discover the mysterious word, type it on the touch screen present in this same room and, if you answered correctly, you will be able to see a truly special video…
Thank you for being with us and enjoy your stay in the land of Parma.